Journal Entries - Part Two

More from my journal:

July 16, 2010 Chikanda
The end of week one of pre-service training, I’ve been in Malawi now for just over two weeks and I have to say, I’m really enjoying myself. This concept of a simpler way of life is really rubbing off on me. Things are far less complicated, I have a near minimum level of stress (save for the few side effects from the anti-malarial meds), I’m fully rested, nearly over-rested (I’m sleeping around 9 hours a night right now). It’s so different, yet so welcome. This is what I envisioned of my Peace Corps lifestyle, a simple existence while doing meaningful work. So far, so good, granted I’m still in the training phase, but nonetheless, it will be similar to this. And it is thus far.
I like my homestay family more and more. We are growing more comfortable and fond of each other. I was initially scared that my amayi didn’t like me; she seemed a little distant and standoffish. I think she just needed some time to adjust to my presence (and me to adjust to hers). Now, we laugh and joke with one another, or as much joking as can be had with limited dialogue (just an FYI, fart noises are just as funny here).

July 18, 2010 Chikanda
I’m feeling very productive today. This is why I like Sundays; I love to turn them into days where I can work through a list, crossing things off as I go. I got up to run this morning with a few other trainees staying in my village. Running is a bit different here; I have to run in baggy clothes with my chitenge wrapped around me. (I’m so glad I brought three pairs of running shorts that I’ll never be able to wear.) I managed to do all my laundry, all of my laundry since I’ve been in country. That took about two and a half hours, essentially forever. I made the time seem to pass a little faster by rocking out to Girl Talk on the iPod, this was a source of amusement for my family as I tend to rap the lyrics out loud when the moment strikes me. I also swept and cleaned my nyumba (my little mud hut). As I said, a very productive day, I’m feeling quite content.
After chakulya cha muhanya, lunch, the two other trainees and myself learning Chitimbuka went to speak with another family in Chikanda that is fluent in Chitimbuka. This is the sort of exercise that Peace Corps calls self-directed learning. We are to go plop ourselves down with someone, in this case the Naluso family, and speak our targeted language. I was a little apprehensive about the exercise, I mean how comfortable can you be when your trainer just gives you the name of a family, tells you where they live, and instructs you to go on Sunday afternoon. But, all apprehensions aside, the family was great! I was quite surprised. The family consisted of an amayi, an abambo, and two secondary school aged girls; they were so inviting and very sweet. They really grasped the purpose of our visit and spoke slowly, enunciating each syllable, and asking the simple questions: what did you have for lunch? what do you like about Malawi? how is your family? I really wonder why they’re not hosting a trainee since they have such a good grasp of English and a language that isn’t spoke even in the region (we’re in a Chichewa-speaking part of the country). ‘Tis a shame since they are so patient and they have such a nice compound, really one of the more beautiful mud huts I’ve seen in Malawi.

July 21, 2010 Lilongwe
Today was the visit to the presidential estate. The President of Malawi, Ngwazi Bingu wa Mutharika hosted the entire Peace Corps contingency for a luncheon in appreciation of the work PC is doing in Malawi. It was quite the event to say the least the very least. The entire luncheon from the first person to enter the hall to the last dance danced was broadcasted on the local government channel the Malawi Broadcasting Network (MBC). We were informed early on that the event was being broadcasted live, hint hint don’t embarrass yourselves or pick your nose or anything like that. Well, that warning wasn’t exactly heeded, the embarrass yourselves part, I’m not sure how many people were caught picking their noses.
Overall, the event was highly enjoyable if not a little over the top. I met a ton of the current PCVs from all over the country, just about 100 showed up in total. If you were a meat-eater, you were in heaven. The menu included fish, beef, chicken, beans, vegetables, etc. And not only did you get to pick one option, you could have the smorgasbord if you so chose. The gentleman placed next to me did just this. I’m sure it sounds delicious to a number of people, but let me relate that the fish is served whole. So, you have to look at the face of it, peel away the scales, and debone it on spot. Plus, Malawians aren’t so keen on silverware, so this is done all by hand, literally. Anyhow, I convinced my seat mate to gouge out the eyes and eat those first, sure it was out of spite for not only eating that much meat but for the overall gluttony of it all. Ok, that sounded rather pretentious, many apologies, nonetheless it was kinda gross.
And then there was the booze. Bingu is a Catholic and just like at home, the Catholics know how to have a good time when it comes to their drink. Bottle after bottle came to the table, when one was not yet halfway depleted a fresh one arrived. South African wine, rose and brut champagne, Amarula (a Malawian version of Bailey’s), beer, etc. all in bountiful supply and free. You can imagine how this would inspire young Americans on a budget, in a foreign country, who only seldom see other azungus. Yes, to answer your question and my foreboding first paragraph, the volunteers on the whole got good and toasty. And with the band Bingu hired, we all danced and drank the afternoon away (as I said, it was a luncheon), so toasted by 4pm.
Since, I’ve travelled from the south of the Malawi to the far north and often I’ve been stopped, say at road blocks (which are common on the major highways). And, each time someone mentions watching the luncheon and then comments that we sure know how to have a good time. I’d say it’s a message of good will, both those comments and our overall behavior. We are sharing our culture with Malawi, just as tenet 3 of the Peace Corps mission suggests.

July 23, 2010 Chikanda
I apologize in advance for this entry, it’s a little cheesy, but I’m writing it anyway. Until now I never really understood the meaning of the phrase a ‘twinkling star.’ I grew up gazing at the stars, waking at obscure hours to lie on the hood of my Dad’s car out in the country watching meteor showers. From then on, I have a certain fascination with the nighttime sky. I grew up assuming though that each star was a constant stream of faint light, more of a steady twinkly than a varying sparkle. Not until I came to Malawi and had a chance to entrance myself with the nighttime shroud of darkness. I’m happy to say that my fascination does not wane here and the stars really do twinkle, it’s not just a cliché. Each star seems to glisten against the effervescent background of the Milky Way, so clearly identifiable in the night sky. And the moon, it’s so unbelievably bright – I now have a much better context for Cat Steven’s song “Moon Shadow.” You walk with a real shadow behind you at night; you can walk most anyplace without the assistance of a flashlight. It’s just beautiful, sigh.