Here are some thoughts on Malawian mannerisms.
There are several behaviors that I can’t seem to wrap my head around, behaviors where the two parts don’t make a whole. For instance, Malawians eat their meals with their hands, but don’t lick their fingers afterward. Malawians eat nsima, a corn polenta/porridge thing that serves as the base of every single meal they serve here. You eat it by taking a chunk with your hand, ball it up, and then dip it in the dende, the relish, which are the side dishes. This is generally something like beans, cooked greens, meat (if they eat it), or soya pieces (which are surprisingly delicious). Anyhow, nsima is part of every meal and that’s how you eat it and in the process your fingers get pretty sticky. And, you think it would be common nature to lick your fingers after such an endeavor, but no they just wash their hands. I’ve yet to see them stick any fingers in their mouth in fact. It makes me feel rather ridiculous to lick my fingers in consequence also, damn it.
As I said they eat with their hands, they basically do everything with their hands. They touch burning coals from the fire with their bare hands. They cut tomatoes in their hands, no problem, and add it to whatever dish they happen to be making. They handwash clothes, scrub out massive stains with nothing other than their hands. I need to work on making my hands Malawian-friendly so I can do some of these more arduous tasks. I can barely grab one of the nsima patties from the dish because they’re so hot, let alone anything else. I guess my work is cut out for me there.
So another Malawian mannerism, women breastfeed anywhere and everywhere with little modesty paid to whoever might be in view. They just whip out a breast at the drop of the hat, or here at the first cry of the iwe. They whip it out say in a village meeting (and the Chief might be mid-sentence), or standing in line at the bank, or walking through the market they swing the baby around to suckle (they wrap their kids in a chitenge, a long piece of fabric, wrapped around so they carry them on their back). It’s bizarre how commonplace it is to see a woman breastfeeding. I’d be lying if I didn’t say that I still stare each time I see it; I really need to get used to it so I can quit feeling like a pervert every time I see a large breast hanging free from an open shirt. But, the kicker is Malawi is a very conservative country when it comes to dress and custom. Modesty is a pillar of culture here. So, only in the cities, the larger cities at that, do women even wear pants. All skirts or dresses worn come well below the knees. Low-cut shirts are extremely rare, I’ve seen very few that even dip below the collar bone in the village. Needless to say, I feel kinda slutty walking around in my knee-length skirt and wife beater. I wish I would have brought some more full coverage shirts and skirts. It’s just such a shame since it’s in the mid to upper 80s like every day, so spaghetti-strap tanks are really the most ideal.
Some other interesting things I’d like to comment on. The word “sure” seems to suffice as an answer to just about everything.
Say: I like your hair, it looks very nice today.
Response: Sure?!
Or
Say: Are we going to town today?
Response: Sure. Sure.
Or
Say to the grocer: Will bread be in tomorrow?
Response: Sure. (even though it won’t be in for a week)
Which leads me to my next point, Malawians also don’t like to be the bearer of bad news. They don’t want to disappoint you. So, if you ask something where the outcome/answer is either unknown or not what you want to hear, they assure something else. Take the question posed to the grocer about the bread, he tells me “sure” or “probably” every time I ask, no matter when the actual shipment is coming in. Or
Say: How far is Embangweni from here? (A question I asked in the middle of my bike ride to a nearby town)
Response: Sure, it’s just there, not far. (And I rode my bike for another half an hour before I arrived).
Matolas are another interesting experience here in Malawi. They are the most widely available form of public transportation. And, it’s another place where custom doesn’t exactly meet practice. A matola is generally a sketchy looking pickup truck where everyone squishes into the bed, along with any katundu, luggage or parcels, and many large 50lb bags of maize or sugar or cement (which always seem to be in transit to some place). Anyone and everyone squishes in. A driver and I guess what you would call a toll-taker operate the vehicle. The toll-taker hollers at anyone standing along the rode asking if they want to ride and they will pick up absolutely anyone, even if the truckbed is overflowing with people or in danger of bottoming out. Credit to Malawians though, they always seem to make it work, everyone always fits and I’ve yet to actually hear the car bottom out when traversing some of the more treacherous dusty road escarpments. At one point on a particularly crowded matola, I was sitting against the truck cab on a bag of maize meal, my legs facing away from the cab and straddling the woman nearest me. No one seemed to mind that I was quite literally straddling her and occassionally she would swap at my foot for some unknown reason. Anyhow, I was quite thankful to be wearing pants on this day (I was in the city to pick up some supplies) rather than a chitenge, I’m not sure what the outcome of that situation would have been otherwise.
I also just got a kitten, I’ve had him for a week now (I got him September 10, I’m not sure when you’re going to read this). His name is Panda and he is quite entertaining and makes me feel less crazy for talking to myself around the house. The story of how he got to my house is rather amusing. So Malawians are kinda weird when it comes to cats. The custom is to carry it in a canvas bag (say a pillowcase) and once the cat is in the bag you are not supposed to let it see where you or going. You are also not supposed to talk with anyone while you are in transit with the cat for fear of letting the feline know your whereabouts. So, if you are traveling with a cat or with someone else traveling with a cat, you are to shush anyone who talks to you and indicate that you are traveling with a cat, by holding up the bag and making meowing sounds. The trip on the matola with the cat was rather interesting to say the least, holding a cat in a bag while straddling a lady and being the only white people around (my friend Ray was traveling along to bring the kitten). Oh yes, we were a spectacle.
I’m sure this list will only grow with time. I plan to make this a series. I hope you enjoyed the beginning.
Friday, September 24, 2010
More from my Journal
July 25, 2010 Chikanda
Today I convinced my homestay sister and cousin to run with me. They find it quite hilarious that I go on runs, so I toke it upon myself to invite them. We woke a few minutes before 6am and started out to Mzengareza. It was highly overcast and insanely windy, all in all not a good day to run uphill against the wind, so to Mzengareza we went. They did pretty well considering we did a 45 minute run. I even threw in some calisthenics mid-run to keep them entertained; we did high knees, butt kicks, and the indian run.
In the afternoon the lot of us trainees organized a trip to Dedza Pottery and Lodge. It’s quite close, only a few minutes outside of Mzengareza. They fire all their own pottery and provide a robustly decadent menu. By Malawian standards they’re quite pricey, say K1200 for my vegetable curry, but that translates to roughly $4.50. I will say I was a tad disappointed with my meal though, there was a noticeabe lack of good vegetables and the portion size was meager. Os was sitting right next to me and he ordered the chicken curry with nearly twice as much curry and steamed vegetables on the side. And, it was cheaper than mine. I was a tad peeved, really vegetables are cheaper than chicken no matter how you look at it and especially here where meat is a delicacy. So, I complained and the manager ended up charging me the same as the chicken curry. Not a total victory, but it will do. Oh how my mother would be proud, using my bargaining skills.
So before starting Peace Corps I was very deliberate to not set any sort of real expectations or goals. I didn’t want to arrive in Malawi and have over or underestimated my position. I wanted to come into this and be able to roll with the punches. And, I’d say I’ve done just that, for the most part. Sure, I did have some unconscious, un-uttered thoughts – like am I really going to be able to hack it? I’ve never been this far from home for this long, etc. Of course I told myself I was up to the challenge, but in the back of my head I wondered am I really. Now I’m here and it seems so natural, more natural than I would have ever thought possible. My roll-with-it-attitude has acquiesced with my determination to “hack” it and won over my subconscious. I just go day by day, just as I did back home, and it seems so almost easy at this point. Here I am, just living in working in Malawi. I still have those surreal moments of “Holy shit I’m in Malawi!” But those moments are becoming less and less. And, when I have those too real pangs my coping mechanism kicks in and I return to the book I was reading or watch an episode of Seinfeld or Gossip Girl (guilty pleasure #1 right now) on my netbook.
July 26, 2010 Chikanda
Chikanda moyo is a sort of cake native to Malawi, made from their all-purpose ngaiwa (corn flour), bananas, and a few other things. Besides being delicious, the name means “to love life,” which I find so appropriate. I thought of my dear friend Ashley Davis when Aaron, my language trainer, told us what it meant. If you know Ashley you know her basic life motto is “I heart life.” I can’t count the many times I’ve heard her say it as a response to just about anything. As cheesy as I thought it sounded at the time, which I did, I would roll my eyes and laugh when she would say it. Now, it seems so pertinent. Chikando moyo is an essential part to this whole adventure. To be here and to work with any sort of enthusiasm, you must love life and I do. I’m enjoying every moment of it and I have for quite some time now.
July 27, 2010 Chikanda
Funny moment of the day: I let Molini, my homestay sister, look at my iPhone. She likes to flip through the music, looking at all the album covers and playing random songs. She’s breezing through all the music when she decides to play, at complete random, “Pussy Fight.” Please keep in mind that my older brother, Jason, gave me this phone with all the music already on it. The majority of the music is ghetto rap music, just saying, we’re real Topeka people folks. I’m doing my best not to laugh out loud to such lyrics as “girl pull your panties down, girl we’re going to have a pussy fight.” Or “you can call me a nympho because girl I’m goin’ limp over you.” I can barely contain myself and dear Molini, she’s just bopping along to the catchy beat.
July 28, 2010 Chikanda
Here’s to prove myself that I’m halfway proficient with Chitimbuka. A small lesson on my homestay family:
Iyi, ni mbumba yane mu nyumba mwithu, nili na bakulu babiri na balongosi batatu. Ndipo mbumba ya Masina. Mudumbu wachinkonde, wali na chaka chimozo. M’bale mwanalume, wali na vyaka vinkonde na vibiri. Ba’bale wachibiri na wachitatu, bali na vyaka vikhumi na chimoza. Bana bane, mazina ghabo gha kumalira na Tonice. Badada na bamama bane, bali na zina abo ni ba Masina. Mbumba yane yikunitemwa.
August 3, 2010
Today was a good day. The beg bugs that had infested my nyumba are finally gone. After gassing my entire nyumba with Doom and putting up fresh plastic to protect from the falling thatch, I am now fully protected from both the bed bugs and the ever-persistent urdzu, the bits of grass that falls from the thatch roof. It was clustering in a ball in the far corner of my room and the spurs burrow into my blankets and clothes. So scratchy and irritating. I’m so glad to be rid of the two things. Only, I still have a dozen or more bites that I keep itching. Sunday night was certainly the worst – I could just feel them crawling on me. I lay awake for hours, barely able to contain my anxiety. The anti-malarial meds are just preying on this anxiety and amplifying it too. Dr. Erfan, the Peace Corps Medical Officer, says that Mefloquine just exacerbates any pre-existing anxieties. So it was a long night to say the least, the only real way I got through it was listening to Enya. Something about new age music is really soothing to me, please don’t judge. I spent the majority of Monday sporadically scratching myself. Even though bedbugs are nocturnal creatures I just kept feeling things crawl on me. It was pretty awful.
But, as I said, the bugs are gone, doomed to death. And today did turn into a very good day. We had our cooking demonstration with our trainers. We spent the entire afternoon preparing various Malawian dishes. I was excited to learn how to make mandasis, the Malawian donuts. I made a vegan variety that only requires flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, water, and oil to fry them in. Here’s to going back to the US and teaching that you can make vegan donuts! You can do some other mix-ins like bananas, cocoa, or roll them in cinnamon and sugar. Quite delicious. For the meat eaters, Talia killed a chicken, she had her first go at slicing the head off and everything. I couldn’t bring myself to watch. It was 6 or so people clustered around her, one holding the head down with his foot, the bird squawking in fear, feathers catching in the wind, and then the “I don’t know if I can do it!” “But you have to!” “Ok, here it goes.” And slice. It turns my stomach a little to write about it. But kudos to those that can kill their own food and use the majority of the body, then you go ahead with my blessing. Just watching them carve up was pretty stomach-turning as well. Evidently, the spleen (or what I think was the spleen) ruptured and green gunk was all over the insides. They had to clean it all out, each organ and body part, or risk food poisioning. Personally, having to take risks like that and touching the meat is too unsettling for me. Another big reason why I don’t eat meat.
It was also Talia’s birthday today. So, we made a Chikanda moyo for her. To make African cake, grease the bottom of a large pot, mix and place all the ingredients inside, build a small fire below the pot, and cover and build a small fire on the lid. Bam, Malawian dutch oven. So, we sang both the English and Malawian versions of Happy Birthday (the latter is the same tune but with Chitimbuka words, funny how that song seems to translate to any language and it always sounds the same). We then broke out a bottle of Gold Label, Malawian brandy, and passed it around each of us exchanging toasts. The toast of the evening, “Just kill it!” It pertained to both finishing the bottle of liquor and to killing the chicken. Quite appropriate. I did make Talia a card for her birthday, made out of LAR (locally available resources), i.e. the magazines I brought from home. It was pretty fun and clever, or at least I thought so. The text: “Mike Tyson would like to posee a riddle: What’s ginormous, well-hung, or mini in size?” [with a picture of Mike Tyson]. The inside: “Ntochi of course, I mean we are in Africa aren’t we?” [with a picture of a banana].
Today I convinced my homestay sister and cousin to run with me. They find it quite hilarious that I go on runs, so I toke it upon myself to invite them. We woke a few minutes before 6am and started out to Mzengareza. It was highly overcast and insanely windy, all in all not a good day to run uphill against the wind, so to Mzengareza we went. They did pretty well considering we did a 45 minute run. I even threw in some calisthenics mid-run to keep them entertained; we did high knees, butt kicks, and the indian run.
In the afternoon the lot of us trainees organized a trip to Dedza Pottery and Lodge. It’s quite close, only a few minutes outside of Mzengareza. They fire all their own pottery and provide a robustly decadent menu. By Malawian standards they’re quite pricey, say K1200 for my vegetable curry, but that translates to roughly $4.50. I will say I was a tad disappointed with my meal though, there was a noticeabe lack of good vegetables and the portion size was meager. Os was sitting right next to me and he ordered the chicken curry with nearly twice as much curry and steamed vegetables on the side. And, it was cheaper than mine. I was a tad peeved, really vegetables are cheaper than chicken no matter how you look at it and especially here where meat is a delicacy. So, I complained and the manager ended up charging me the same as the chicken curry. Not a total victory, but it will do. Oh how my mother would be proud, using my bargaining skills.
So before starting Peace Corps I was very deliberate to not set any sort of real expectations or goals. I didn’t want to arrive in Malawi and have over or underestimated my position. I wanted to come into this and be able to roll with the punches. And, I’d say I’ve done just that, for the most part. Sure, I did have some unconscious, un-uttered thoughts – like am I really going to be able to hack it? I’ve never been this far from home for this long, etc. Of course I told myself I was up to the challenge, but in the back of my head I wondered am I really. Now I’m here and it seems so natural, more natural than I would have ever thought possible. My roll-with-it-attitude has acquiesced with my determination to “hack” it and won over my subconscious. I just go day by day, just as I did back home, and it seems so almost easy at this point. Here I am, just living in working in Malawi. I still have those surreal moments of “Holy shit I’m in Malawi!” But those moments are becoming less and less. And, when I have those too real pangs my coping mechanism kicks in and I return to the book I was reading or watch an episode of Seinfeld or Gossip Girl (guilty pleasure #1 right now) on my netbook.
July 26, 2010 Chikanda
Chikanda moyo is a sort of cake native to Malawi, made from their all-purpose ngaiwa (corn flour), bananas, and a few other things. Besides being delicious, the name means “to love life,” which I find so appropriate. I thought of my dear friend Ashley Davis when Aaron, my language trainer, told us what it meant. If you know Ashley you know her basic life motto is “I heart life.” I can’t count the many times I’ve heard her say it as a response to just about anything. As cheesy as I thought it sounded at the time, which I did, I would roll my eyes and laugh when she would say it. Now, it seems so pertinent. Chikando moyo is an essential part to this whole adventure. To be here and to work with any sort of enthusiasm, you must love life and I do. I’m enjoying every moment of it and I have for quite some time now.
July 27, 2010 Chikanda
Funny moment of the day: I let Molini, my homestay sister, look at my iPhone. She likes to flip through the music, looking at all the album covers and playing random songs. She’s breezing through all the music when she decides to play, at complete random, “Pussy Fight.” Please keep in mind that my older brother, Jason, gave me this phone with all the music already on it. The majority of the music is ghetto rap music, just saying, we’re real Topeka people folks. I’m doing my best not to laugh out loud to such lyrics as “girl pull your panties down, girl we’re going to have a pussy fight.” Or “you can call me a nympho because girl I’m goin’ limp over you.” I can barely contain myself and dear Molini, she’s just bopping along to the catchy beat.
July 28, 2010 Chikanda
Here’s to prove myself that I’m halfway proficient with Chitimbuka. A small lesson on my homestay family:
Iyi, ni mbumba yane mu nyumba mwithu, nili na bakulu babiri na balongosi batatu. Ndipo mbumba ya Masina. Mudumbu wachinkonde, wali na chaka chimozo. M’bale mwanalume, wali na vyaka vinkonde na vibiri. Ba’bale wachibiri na wachitatu, bali na vyaka vikhumi na chimoza. Bana bane, mazina ghabo gha kumalira na Tonice. Badada na bamama bane, bali na zina abo ni ba Masina. Mbumba yane yikunitemwa.
August 3, 2010
Today was a good day. The beg bugs that had infested my nyumba are finally gone. After gassing my entire nyumba with Doom and putting up fresh plastic to protect from the falling thatch, I am now fully protected from both the bed bugs and the ever-persistent urdzu, the bits of grass that falls from the thatch roof. It was clustering in a ball in the far corner of my room and the spurs burrow into my blankets and clothes. So scratchy and irritating. I’m so glad to be rid of the two things. Only, I still have a dozen or more bites that I keep itching. Sunday night was certainly the worst – I could just feel them crawling on me. I lay awake for hours, barely able to contain my anxiety. The anti-malarial meds are just preying on this anxiety and amplifying it too. Dr. Erfan, the Peace Corps Medical Officer, says that Mefloquine just exacerbates any pre-existing anxieties. So it was a long night to say the least, the only real way I got through it was listening to Enya. Something about new age music is really soothing to me, please don’t judge. I spent the majority of Monday sporadically scratching myself. Even though bedbugs are nocturnal creatures I just kept feeling things crawl on me. It was pretty awful.
But, as I said, the bugs are gone, doomed to death. And today did turn into a very good day. We had our cooking demonstration with our trainers. We spent the entire afternoon preparing various Malawian dishes. I was excited to learn how to make mandasis, the Malawian donuts. I made a vegan variety that only requires flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, water, and oil to fry them in. Here’s to going back to the US and teaching that you can make vegan donuts! You can do some other mix-ins like bananas, cocoa, or roll them in cinnamon and sugar. Quite delicious. For the meat eaters, Talia killed a chicken, she had her first go at slicing the head off and everything. I couldn’t bring myself to watch. It was 6 or so people clustered around her, one holding the head down with his foot, the bird squawking in fear, feathers catching in the wind, and then the “I don’t know if I can do it!” “But you have to!” “Ok, here it goes.” And slice. It turns my stomach a little to write about it. But kudos to those that can kill their own food and use the majority of the body, then you go ahead with my blessing. Just watching them carve up was pretty stomach-turning as well. Evidently, the spleen (or what I think was the spleen) ruptured and green gunk was all over the insides. They had to clean it all out, each organ and body part, or risk food poisioning. Personally, having to take risks like that and touching the meat is too unsettling for me. Another big reason why I don’t eat meat.
It was also Talia’s birthday today. So, we made a Chikanda moyo for her. To make African cake, grease the bottom of a large pot, mix and place all the ingredients inside, build a small fire below the pot, and cover and build a small fire on the lid. Bam, Malawian dutch oven. So, we sang both the English and Malawian versions of Happy Birthday (the latter is the same tune but with Chitimbuka words, funny how that song seems to translate to any language and it always sounds the same). We then broke out a bottle of Gold Label, Malawian brandy, and passed it around each of us exchanging toasts. The toast of the evening, “Just kill it!” It pertained to both finishing the bottle of liquor and to killing the chicken. Quite appropriate. I did make Talia a card for her birthday, made out of LAR (locally available resources), i.e. the magazines I brought from home. It was pretty fun and clever, or at least I thought so. The text: “Mike Tyson would like to posee a riddle: What’s ginormous, well-hung, or mini in size?” [with a picture of Mike Tyson]. The inside: “Ntochi of course, I mean we are in Africa aren’t we?” [with a picture of a banana].
Friday, September 10, 2010
Journal Entries - Part Two
More from my journal:
July 16, 2010 Chikanda
The end of week one of pre-service training, I’ve been in Malawi now for just over two weeks and I have to say, I’m really enjoying myself. This concept of a simpler way of life is really rubbing off on me. Things are far less complicated, I have a near minimum level of stress (save for the few side effects from the anti-malarial meds), I’m fully rested, nearly over-rested (I’m sleeping around 9 hours a night right now). It’s so different, yet so welcome. This is what I envisioned of my Peace Corps lifestyle, a simple existence while doing meaningful work. So far, so good, granted I’m still in the training phase, but nonetheless, it will be similar to this. And it is thus far.
I like my homestay family more and more. We are growing more comfortable and fond of each other. I was initially scared that my amayi didn’t like me; she seemed a little distant and standoffish. I think she just needed some time to adjust to my presence (and me to adjust to hers). Now, we laugh and joke with one another, or as much joking as can be had with limited dialogue (just an FYI, fart noises are just as funny here).
July 18, 2010 Chikanda
I’m feeling very productive today. This is why I like Sundays; I love to turn them into days where I can work through a list, crossing things off as I go. I got up to run this morning with a few other trainees staying in my village. Running is a bit different here; I have to run in baggy clothes with my chitenge wrapped around me. (I’m so glad I brought three pairs of running shorts that I’ll never be able to wear.) I managed to do all my laundry, all of my laundry since I’ve been in country. That took about two and a half hours, essentially forever. I made the time seem to pass a little faster by rocking out to Girl Talk on the iPod, this was a source of amusement for my family as I tend to rap the lyrics out loud when the moment strikes me. I also swept and cleaned my nyumba (my little mud hut). As I said, a very productive day, I’m feeling quite content.
After chakulya cha muhanya, lunch, the two other trainees and myself learning Chitimbuka went to speak with another family in Chikanda that is fluent in Chitimbuka. This is the sort of exercise that Peace Corps calls self-directed learning. We are to go plop ourselves down with someone, in this case the Naluso family, and speak our targeted language. I was a little apprehensive about the exercise, I mean how comfortable can you be when your trainer just gives you the name of a family, tells you where they live, and instructs you to go on Sunday afternoon. But, all apprehensions aside, the family was great! I was quite surprised. The family consisted of an amayi, an abambo, and two secondary school aged girls; they were so inviting and very sweet. They really grasped the purpose of our visit and spoke slowly, enunciating each syllable, and asking the simple questions: what did you have for lunch? what do you like about Malawi? how is your family? I really wonder why they’re not hosting a trainee since they have such a good grasp of English and a language that isn’t spoke even in the region (we’re in a Chichewa-speaking part of the country). ‘Tis a shame since they are so patient and they have such a nice compound, really one of the more beautiful mud huts I’ve seen in Malawi.
July 21, 2010 Lilongwe
Today was the visit to the presidential estate. The President of Malawi, Ngwazi Bingu wa Mutharika hosted the entire Peace Corps contingency for a luncheon in appreciation of the work PC is doing in Malawi. It was quite the event to say the least the very least. The entire luncheon from the first person to enter the hall to the last dance danced was broadcasted on the local government channel the Malawi Broadcasting Network (MBC). We were informed early on that the event was being broadcasted live, hint hint don’t embarrass yourselves or pick your nose or anything like that. Well, that warning wasn’t exactly heeded, the embarrass yourselves part, I’m not sure how many people were caught picking their noses.
Overall, the event was highly enjoyable if not a little over the top. I met a ton of the current PCVs from all over the country, just about 100 showed up in total. If you were a meat-eater, you were in heaven. The menu included fish, beef, chicken, beans, vegetables, etc. And not only did you get to pick one option, you could have the smorgasbord if you so chose. The gentleman placed next to me did just this. I’m sure it sounds delicious to a number of people, but let me relate that the fish is served whole. So, you have to look at the face of it, peel away the scales, and debone it on spot. Plus, Malawians aren’t so keen on silverware, so this is done all by hand, literally. Anyhow, I convinced my seat mate to gouge out the eyes and eat those first, sure it was out of spite for not only eating that much meat but for the overall gluttony of it all. Ok, that sounded rather pretentious, many apologies, nonetheless it was kinda gross.
And then there was the booze. Bingu is a Catholic and just like at home, the Catholics know how to have a good time when it comes to their drink. Bottle after bottle came to the table, when one was not yet halfway depleted a fresh one arrived. South African wine, rose and brut champagne, Amarula (a Malawian version of Bailey’s), beer, etc. all in bountiful supply and free. You can imagine how this would inspire young Americans on a budget, in a foreign country, who only seldom see other azungus. Yes, to answer your question and my foreboding first paragraph, the volunteers on the whole got good and toasty. And with the band Bingu hired, we all danced and drank the afternoon away (as I said, it was a luncheon), so toasted by 4pm.
Since, I’ve travelled from the south of the Malawi to the far north and often I’ve been stopped, say at road blocks (which are common on the major highways). And, each time someone mentions watching the luncheon and then comments that we sure know how to have a good time. I’d say it’s a message of good will, both those comments and our overall behavior. We are sharing our culture with Malawi, just as tenet 3 of the Peace Corps mission suggests.
July 23, 2010 Chikanda
I apologize in advance for this entry, it’s a little cheesy, but I’m writing it anyway. Until now I never really understood the meaning of the phrase a ‘twinkling star.’ I grew up gazing at the stars, waking at obscure hours to lie on the hood of my Dad’s car out in the country watching meteor showers. From then on, I have a certain fascination with the nighttime sky. I grew up assuming though that each star was a constant stream of faint light, more of a steady twinkly than a varying sparkle. Not until I came to Malawi and had a chance to entrance myself with the nighttime shroud of darkness. I’m happy to say that my fascination does not wane here and the stars really do twinkle, it’s not just a cliché. Each star seems to glisten against the effervescent background of the Milky Way, so clearly identifiable in the night sky. And the moon, it’s so unbelievably bright – I now have a much better context for Cat Steven’s song “Moon Shadow.” You walk with a real shadow behind you at night; you can walk most anyplace without the assistance of a flashlight. It’s just beautiful, sigh.
July 16, 2010 Chikanda
The end of week one of pre-service training, I’ve been in Malawi now for just over two weeks and I have to say, I’m really enjoying myself. This concept of a simpler way of life is really rubbing off on me. Things are far less complicated, I have a near minimum level of stress (save for the few side effects from the anti-malarial meds), I’m fully rested, nearly over-rested (I’m sleeping around 9 hours a night right now). It’s so different, yet so welcome. This is what I envisioned of my Peace Corps lifestyle, a simple existence while doing meaningful work. So far, so good, granted I’m still in the training phase, but nonetheless, it will be similar to this. And it is thus far.
I like my homestay family more and more. We are growing more comfortable and fond of each other. I was initially scared that my amayi didn’t like me; she seemed a little distant and standoffish. I think she just needed some time to adjust to my presence (and me to adjust to hers). Now, we laugh and joke with one another, or as much joking as can be had with limited dialogue (just an FYI, fart noises are just as funny here).
July 18, 2010 Chikanda
I’m feeling very productive today. This is why I like Sundays; I love to turn them into days where I can work through a list, crossing things off as I go. I got up to run this morning with a few other trainees staying in my village. Running is a bit different here; I have to run in baggy clothes with my chitenge wrapped around me. (I’m so glad I brought three pairs of running shorts that I’ll never be able to wear.) I managed to do all my laundry, all of my laundry since I’ve been in country. That took about two and a half hours, essentially forever. I made the time seem to pass a little faster by rocking out to Girl Talk on the iPod, this was a source of amusement for my family as I tend to rap the lyrics out loud when the moment strikes me. I also swept and cleaned my nyumba (my little mud hut). As I said, a very productive day, I’m feeling quite content.
After chakulya cha muhanya, lunch, the two other trainees and myself learning Chitimbuka went to speak with another family in Chikanda that is fluent in Chitimbuka. This is the sort of exercise that Peace Corps calls self-directed learning. We are to go plop ourselves down with someone, in this case the Naluso family, and speak our targeted language. I was a little apprehensive about the exercise, I mean how comfortable can you be when your trainer just gives you the name of a family, tells you where they live, and instructs you to go on Sunday afternoon. But, all apprehensions aside, the family was great! I was quite surprised. The family consisted of an amayi, an abambo, and two secondary school aged girls; they were so inviting and very sweet. They really grasped the purpose of our visit and spoke slowly, enunciating each syllable, and asking the simple questions: what did you have for lunch? what do you like about Malawi? how is your family? I really wonder why they’re not hosting a trainee since they have such a good grasp of English and a language that isn’t spoke even in the region (we’re in a Chichewa-speaking part of the country). ‘Tis a shame since they are so patient and they have such a nice compound, really one of the more beautiful mud huts I’ve seen in Malawi.
July 21, 2010 Lilongwe
Today was the visit to the presidential estate. The President of Malawi, Ngwazi Bingu wa Mutharika hosted the entire Peace Corps contingency for a luncheon in appreciation of the work PC is doing in Malawi. It was quite the event to say the least the very least. The entire luncheon from the first person to enter the hall to the last dance danced was broadcasted on the local government channel the Malawi Broadcasting Network (MBC). We were informed early on that the event was being broadcasted live, hint hint don’t embarrass yourselves or pick your nose or anything like that. Well, that warning wasn’t exactly heeded, the embarrass yourselves part, I’m not sure how many people were caught picking their noses.
Overall, the event was highly enjoyable if not a little over the top. I met a ton of the current PCVs from all over the country, just about 100 showed up in total. If you were a meat-eater, you were in heaven. The menu included fish, beef, chicken, beans, vegetables, etc. And not only did you get to pick one option, you could have the smorgasbord if you so chose. The gentleman placed next to me did just this. I’m sure it sounds delicious to a number of people, but let me relate that the fish is served whole. So, you have to look at the face of it, peel away the scales, and debone it on spot. Plus, Malawians aren’t so keen on silverware, so this is done all by hand, literally. Anyhow, I convinced my seat mate to gouge out the eyes and eat those first, sure it was out of spite for not only eating that much meat but for the overall gluttony of it all. Ok, that sounded rather pretentious, many apologies, nonetheless it was kinda gross.
And then there was the booze. Bingu is a Catholic and just like at home, the Catholics know how to have a good time when it comes to their drink. Bottle after bottle came to the table, when one was not yet halfway depleted a fresh one arrived. South African wine, rose and brut champagne, Amarula (a Malawian version of Bailey’s), beer, etc. all in bountiful supply and free. You can imagine how this would inspire young Americans on a budget, in a foreign country, who only seldom see other azungus. Yes, to answer your question and my foreboding first paragraph, the volunteers on the whole got good and toasty. And with the band Bingu hired, we all danced and drank the afternoon away (as I said, it was a luncheon), so toasted by 4pm.
Since, I’ve travelled from the south of the Malawi to the far north and often I’ve been stopped, say at road blocks (which are common on the major highways). And, each time someone mentions watching the luncheon and then comments that we sure know how to have a good time. I’d say it’s a message of good will, both those comments and our overall behavior. We are sharing our culture with Malawi, just as tenet 3 of the Peace Corps mission suggests.
July 23, 2010 Chikanda
I apologize in advance for this entry, it’s a little cheesy, but I’m writing it anyway. Until now I never really understood the meaning of the phrase a ‘twinkling star.’ I grew up gazing at the stars, waking at obscure hours to lie on the hood of my Dad’s car out in the country watching meteor showers. From then on, I have a certain fascination with the nighttime sky. I grew up assuming though that each star was a constant stream of faint light, more of a steady twinkly than a varying sparkle. Not until I came to Malawi and had a chance to entrance myself with the nighttime shroud of darkness. I’m happy to say that my fascination does not wane here and the stars really do twinkle, it’s not just a cliché. Each star seems to glisten against the effervescent background of the Milky Way, so clearly identifiable in the night sky. And the moon, it’s so unbelievably bright – I now have a much better context for Cat Steven’s song “Moon Shadow.” You walk with a real shadow behind you at night; you can walk most anyplace without the assistance of a flashlight. It’s just beautiful, sigh.
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